Crochet Pussyhat
Materials
Chunky yarn
Abbreviations
ch - chain
hdc - half double crochet
in - inches
sc - single crochet
blo - back loop only (only work into the back loop of the stitch)
sl st - slip stitch
hhdc - herringbone half double crochet (you can replace this stitch with hdc or sc if desired.)
Hook
6mm or what works well with your yarn
Other necessities
Yarn needle for sewing seam (optional)
Instructions
Ribbing
Leave a long tail for joining and make 17 ch (or 4ins, plus 2ch for turning)
Row 1- Hdc in 3rd chain from hook, hdc in each ch across. 15hdc
Row 2 - 2ch (does not count as stitch here or elsewhere), hdc across in blo. 15hdc
Repeat row 2 until work measures 20in, or fits comfortably round the head. Bring the first row of the ribbing up to join with the current row and sew or crochet the two ends together. You can use sc or sl st, but if you are crocheting make sure you allow for the seam creating a bit of extra ease in your work.
Top of hat
Round 1 - Turn work and place three sc in every two row ends (i.e. 1.5 stitches per row end). Make sure you only pick up one loop of any stitches or there will be obvious holes. At end of round, sl st to first st, ch1.
Round 2 - Hhdc into every stitch around
When you reach the last stitch, just go straight on into the first stitch of the round so that you are working in a spiral with no join.
Continue to work in hhdc until the hat measures 8 ins from base to top. Sl st to the next stitch to create a smooth line.
Join along top seam by sewing, or sl st, or sc.
The finished object looks like a flat rectangle, but the ears pop up when you put it on your head.
Fingerless Mitts
Materials
Approx 130 yards chunky yarn5.5 mm hook
6.5 mm hook
Needle and scissors for sewing in ends
Abbreviations
ch - chainsc - single crochet
hdc - half double crochet
blo - back loop only
sl st - slip stitch
Special stitch
When a stitch that is normally worked in the back loop only needs extra stability, work in the back loop and the back bump. The back bump is the small loop directly behind and to the left of the back loop.
Finished size
3.5 inches across palm3.25 inches across wrist
Length 8 inches
Make 2 the same
Wrist ribbing
With 5.5 hookch 12
Row 1: hdc in 3rd ch from hook, hdc in each ch, ch 2, turn
Working in the back loops only. Ch 2 are turning chains and do not count as a stitch.
Rows 2 - 14: hdc in the back loop of each hdc, ch 2, turn
Row 15: hdc in the back loop of each hdc, ch 1, turn
Row 16: sc in the back loop of each hdc, ch 1, turn.
Join with invisible join
Bring end of ribbing round to rest under the current row. Insert hook in front loop of sc and into beginning chain resting directly below. Pull a loop through the beginning chain, sc loop, and yarn on hook. This will form a surface chain that mimics the stitches in the ribbing. Continue along the seam to the end.You will find it helpful to have the ball of yarn at the end of the row, not the beginning. This will mean looping some yarn forward to work with but otherwise you end up having to drag the ball of yarn through the cuff in order to be able to start on the hand.
You can see a video of how to do it here: Making an invisible seam
Hand
Change to 6.5 hook.Round 1: ch 1 (counts as first stitch), place marker in ch, 3 sc in every two row ends, do not join, (24 stitches)
Working in a spiral in the back loops only.
Round 2: one sc in 1st ch, move marker up. Marker is marking 1st stitch of each round. sc in blo of every stitch.
Round 3: work straight, moving marker up.
When putting 2 sc into one stitch, work 1st sc into back loop as usual; work second sc into the bump at the left back of the stitch. This closes up the hole that you would otherwise get.
Rounds 4 - 7: 2sc in marked stitch; move marker to second of these two stitches, sc in blo of every stitch.
(28 stitches)
Rounds 8: work straight but move marker up.
Round 9: work straight up to last 3 stitches of round, putting the final stitch through the back loop and the back bump of stitch; ch 2, skip 6, place next sc into the back loop and the back bump of stitch, continue working in back loops only for hand. (22 stitches)
Round 10: work straight across chains.
Rounds 11 - 16 or as desired: work straight to desired length.
Final round (picots)
Work final round through back loop and back bump of each stitchsl stitch to first stitch of round under back loop and back bump.
*ch2 sl st into first ch, sk 1, sl st to next stitch through back loop and back bump, repeat from * to end of round.
Thumb
Hold mitt so that the chains are nearest to you and the gusset is further away; join yarn in the second of the two chain and work into that chain.Round 1: Ch1, sc in ch, sc in side of stitch, sc in back loop of next 6 stitches, sc in side of stitch , sc in remaining ch, do not join. (10 sc)
Rounds 2 - 4 (or as required): sc in back loop of every stitch, working in spiral rounds. Round end is at join betwen hand and thumb.
When thumb is long enough, slip stitch through both loops of stitch at front of thumb. Make 5 picots, as for top of hand.
Weave in ends. Wear with joy!
http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/chunky-picot-mitts
Mug Cosy With Bite
The cosy is knit from one end. You will be making a garter stitch edging of three stitches at each side, plus two stitches of reverse stocking stitch in the centre of the cosy.
The bite is made by decreasing on one edge of the cosy while keeping the garter stitch following the line of the curved bite.
The ends of the cosy are k1 p1 rib and include a buttonhole at one end.
Instructions
Yarn: DK wool held double, or a chunky wool.
Needles: 4mm
Notions:
Large or small button
Darning needle for sewing in ends
Start
Cast on 14
Rows 1 - 6 : k1 p1 rib
Starting the main body. There are three stitches of garter stitch at each end, plus two reverse stocking stiches in the middle to give an indentation:
Row 7: k6 p2 k6 (Right Side)
Row 8: k3 p3 k2 p3 k3 (Wrong Side)
Row 8: k3 p3 k2 p3 k3 (Wrong Side)
Rows 9 - 12: Repeat rows 7 & 8 twice more
Shaping the bite:
Row 13: ssk, k4, p2, k6
Row 14: k3, p3, k2, p2, k3
Row 15: ssk, k3, p2, k6
Row 16: k3, p3, k2, p1, k3
Row 17: ssk, k2, p2, k6
End of decreases; continue working even:
Row 18: k3, p3, k5
Row 19: k3, p2, k6
Row 20: k3, p3, k5
Start of increases (every other row)
Row 21: kfb, k2, p2, k6
Row 22: k3, p3, k2, p1, k3
Row 23: kfb, k3, p2, k6
Row 24: k3, p3, k2, p2, k3
Row 25: kfb, k4, p2, k6
End of increases.
Row 26 (and all WS rows): k3 p3 k2 p3 k3
Row 27 (and all RS rows): k6 p2 k6
Continue in pattern as set until work measures about 9 inches, or can almost stretch around your mug at full stretch.
K1 p1 rib for two rows; then follow either Option A or Option B for the buttonole.
Buttonhole Option A (for large buttons)
Next row: (k1 p1) four times, then cast off 2 stitches continue in rib to end.
Next row (k1 p1) rib up to cast off stitches, turn work, cast on 2 stitches, turn work and continue in rib.
Buttonhole Option B (for small buttons)
(k1 p1) rib for 5 stitches, p2tog, yo, (k1, p1) to end.
Next row (k1 p1) rib to end
All buttonholes:
next row, k1 p1 to end
next row, cast off in rib.
Sew in ends and sew on button.
Many thanks to CraftyFlutterby for all her help with this pattern. Any remaining errors are all mine!
Many thanks to CraftyFlutterby for all her help with this pattern. Any remaining errors are all mine!
